3D Printing Custom Enclosures for Your Electronics Projects
A good enclosure turns a breadboard prototype into something you'd actually put on a shelf. Here's how to design and print enclosures that fit perfectly every time.
Why Custom Enclosures?
Off-the-shelf project boxes rarely fit. You end up drilling holes that don't align, cutting slots that look rough, and your sensor ends up at a weird angle. 3D printing solves all of this.
Software: FreeCAD (Free & Open Source)
We recommend FreeCAD for enclosure design. It's free, runs on all platforms, and has a parametric modeling workflow that makes iteration easy.
Key Measurements
Before you open FreeCAD, measure these with digital calipers:
- PCB dimensions (L × W × H, including components on bottom)
- Mounting hole positions (center-to-center)
- Connector positions (USB, headers, power jack)
- Tallest component (usually electrolytic caps or pin headers)
Design Tips
- Wall thickness: 2mm minimum for structural rigidity
- Clearance: Add 0.5mm around the PCB on all sides
- Snap-fit tabs: Design clips at 45° with 0.3mm interference fit
- Ventilation: Add 2mm × 10mm slots near heat sources (voltage regulators, motor drivers)
Print Settings for PETG
PETG is our go-to for electronics enclosures — it's stronger than PLA, more heat-resistant, and doesn't get brittle over time.
Material: PETG
Layer height: 0.2mm
Infill: 20% gyroid
Wall count: 3
Top/bottom layers: 4
Print temp: 235°C
Bed temp: 80°C
Speed: 50mm/s
Supports: Only for overhangs > 55°Ventilation Design
Electronics generate heat. A sealed enclosure is an oven. Follow these rules:
- Intake vents at the bottom (cool air rises)
- Exhaust vents at the top
- Slot pattern (2mm × 10mm slots, 3mm apart) blocks most debris while allowing airflow
- Keep vents away from rain — use internal baffles for outdoor enclosures
Recommended Components
For mounting PCBs inside printed enclosures, we stock M2.5 and M3 brass heat-set inserts. Press them into the plastic with a soldering iron at 220°C for threads that won't strip.